Published June 17, 2026 · Analysis ahead of the Basel Convention OEWG-15 meeting (June 23–26, Geneva)
From June 23 to 26, 2026, the Basel Convention’s Open-Ended Working Group (OEWG-15) will meet in Geneva to discuss one of the most consequential questions for our industry: should used clothing be reclassified as controlled waste?
The outcome could affect every container of used clothing crossing international borders — not just from the UK or Europe, but potentially from all origins.
As a Chinese exporter watching these developments closely, we want to share what is at stake, what the key proposals are, and what importers should be preparing for — because whether you import from China, Europe, or the UK, the Basel Convention’s decision could change how your shipments are treated at customs.
⏱ 8 min read · For used clothing importers watching regulatory changes
In this article:
The Basel Convention is an international treaty that controls the cross-border movement of hazardous and other wastes. It has the power to restrict, require permits for, or even prohibit shipments of materials it classifies as “waste.”
Currently, used clothing that is sorted, graded, and fit for direct reuse is generally not classified as waste. But there is growing pressure from environmental groups and domestic textile lobbies to reclassify used textiles — including wearable clothing — as controlled waste.
If that happens, every container of used clothing could face:
⚠️ Why this matters to you: Most importers have never heard of the Basel Convention. But if used clothing is reclassified, your containers could face restrictions that did not exist before — regardless of which country your supplier is in.
The OEWG-15 meeting will consider five options for addressing used textiles under the Basel Convention. Here is what each one means for importers:
| Option | What It Proposes | Impact on Importers |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Review classification codes | Re-examine how used clothing is classified under existing Basel codes | 🟡 Moderate — may clarify rules without major changes |
| 2. Clearer definitions | Develop precise definitions of “waste” vs “non-waste” textiles | 🟢 Positive — removes ambiguity if done fairly |
| 3. Certification systems | Create an international certification system for quality sorting | 🟡 Mixed — adds process but creates transparency |
| 4. Align customs codes | Harmonize Basel codes with HS customs codes | 🟢 Positive — makes cross-border trade predictable |
| 5. Technical guidelines | Develop guidelines for environmentally sound management of used textiles | 🟢 Positive — sets quality standards industry-wide |
The SMEP study presented at the BIR/UNCTAD side event (June 23) could be the most important evidence in this debate. The study found that 96% of exported used clothing arriving in Tanzania and Uganda is wearable quality — not waste.
This data directly challenges the narrative that used clothing exports are “waste dumping.” If the Basel Convention delegates accept this evidence, it strengthens the argument that used clothing is a valuable traded commodity, not a waste product requiring restriction.
💡 From a Chinese exporter: We have seen the inside of thousands of containers over 12 years. The 96% figure matches what we know — serious exporters sort properly because that is what the market demands. No one stays in business shipping unsellable goods. The data simply proves what the industry already knows.
The Basel meeting runs from June 23 to 26. Here is what to pay attention to:
From where we sit in Guangzhou, the Basel discussion is being watched carefully — but not with alarm. Here is why:
Chinese sorting standards are already high. The major sorting facilities in Guangzhou process over 6,000 tons of raw material monthly. A Grade bales are sorted to documented standards. If the Basel Convention moves toward certification systems, Chinese exporters are well-positioned to comply quickly.
Documentation is already standard. Professional Chinese exporters provide: commercial invoices, packing lists, Bills of Lading, fumigation certificates, and grade documentation. The additional paperwork that Basel might require is not a big leap.
The market rewards quality. Importers vote with their orders. Suppliers who ship low-quality bales do not last. The Basel debate will ultimately formalize what the market already enforces: sort properly, or lose your buyers.
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The used clothing trade is changing faster than ever. UK new rules, Basel Convention talks, global standards — regulations are shifting and importers need to keep up.
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